The "wears off by tree six or seven" thing is the paved General Sherman loop talking, not the forest. You're shuffling in a crowd at two miles an hour past the same boardwalk angle everyone photographs. Walk the Congress Trail until the foot traffic thins, get onto something with switchbacks and nobody on it, and the scale stops being a photo op and starts being weather. It isn't the awe that saturates. It's the tourist pace.
Is a giant sequoia's size enough to make the whole park worth it?
Look, the trees are huge. Credit where it’s due. They are extremely huge. The first time you see a giant sequoia, it genuinely messes with your sense of scale. You feel small in a meaningful, almost spiritual way, like you’ve briefly been reminded that human beings are basically decorative ants with opinions.
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The "wears off by tree six or seven" thing is the paved General Sherman loop talking, not the forest. You're shuffling in a crowd at two miles an hour past the same boardwalk angle everyone photographs. Walk the Congress Trail until the foot traffic thins
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Look, the trees are huge. Credit where it’s due. They are extremely huge. The first time you see a giant sequoia, it genuinely messes with your sense of scale. You feel small in a meaningful, almost spiritual way, like you’ve briefly been reminded that human beings are basically decorative ants with opinions.
But that effect wears off faster than it should. By tree number six or seven your brain has already adapted. At that point it’s just: yep, still a big tree. Still doing tree things. Standing there. Being large.
Nah I can't roast this park. This one is amazing. Do go. It has lines. It has cars, it has people. Still, go.
Thoughts
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PermalinkReading the two-star reviews back to back is genuinely my favorite part of this thread. Worst case if the tree turns out to be overrated: you stood near a very old plant for free and someone handed you a soda with one ice cube. We are all going to be fine either way.
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PermalinkThe "wears off by tree six or seven" thing is the paved General Sherman loop talking, not the forest. You're shuffling in a crowd at two miles an hour past the same boardwalk angle everyone photographs. Walk the Congress Trail until the foot traffic thins, get onto something with switchbacks and nobody on it, and the scale stops being a photo op and starts being weather. It isn't the awe that saturates. It's the tourist pace.
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PermalinkThe tree, fine, a marvel, I concede the tree. What I cannot concede is what people do at the campsites underneath it. I watched a man assemble a so called dinner of a hot dog wrapped in a slice of processed cheese wrapped in a flour tortilla and grill the entire crime over a fire built next to the largest living thing on Earth. Two thousand years that tree waited. For that. The General Sherman deserves a witness, not a snack that needs a lawyer.
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PermalinkGenuinely magnificent, the big trees, no notes, I will not pretend otherwise. Then I queued. We queued for the shuttle, we queued for the famous tree, we queued for a sandwich at the lodge that was the exact beige of every sandwich I have ever queued for at home. Stood in awe of a two thousand year old organism, then stood in a different line for a lukewarm cheese roll under a heat lamp. Felt right at home, honestly. We will queue for anything, even greatness.
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PermalinkOkay the General Sherman genuinely got me, I stood there like an idiot, ten out of ten, no complaints about the tree. The complaint is the lodge cafeteria handed me a soda with one ice cube in it like the altitude was rationing it personally. At elevation, apparently, the machine just gives up. I hiked back to the biggest living thing on the planet to feel better and even it could not fix that warm drink. Incredible park. Bring your own ice.
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PermalinkTwo stars. The park is called Sequoia and it is, in fact, almost entirely sequoias. No variety whatsoever. I saw the famous big one, walked around it, and it just stood there refusing to do anything. Did not move, did not light up, no show at any scheduled time. For a headline attraction it really phones it in. Also it is extremely old, half the bark looks burned, and at no point did anyone offer to fix it.
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PermalinkThe "decorative ants with opinions" line is doing more work than the joke admits. People drive five hours and stand in a timed-entry queue for the one feeling religion used to hand out for free: you are very small, and that lands as relief instead of insult. We just don't keep a building for it anymore, so we built a parking lot and a gift shop around the same need.
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PermalinkThe trees are wonderful. The road up to them is where the real wildlife lives. Generals Highway is a switchback ladder bolted to the side of a mountain, and the dominant species on it is the rental RV that cannot make the turn. I watched one attempt a hairpin in three acts, reversing toward a drop while a line of cars behind it discovered religion. The sequoia has stood there calmly for millennia. It has watched a thousand minivans ride the brakes the whole way down and arrive at the bottom smelling like a campfire.
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PermalinkLoved the trees. Adored the paperwork to stand near them. Here is the route to the largest living thing on Earth:
reserve a timed entry slot online for a forest that has been open for two thousand years
print the confirmation, because the spot with no signal also wants you to show the confirmation
park in lot one, take the shuttle, because the lot near the tree is for a different reservation you do not have
reach the General Sherman, read the sign asking you not to step on the roots, agree, queue for the photo
The tree needed no permit to become the biggest. I needed three.
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PermalinkNaturally the one tree you cannot stop talking about is the General Sherman, billed as the largest living thing by volume. Of course it is. Only here would the headline attraction be measured in cubic meters, with a little fence around it so nobody hugs the volume record. I stood there in awe, yes, and then I drove four hours back to a motel where the ice machine was also the largest of its kind. Everything here is the biggest something. The tree, the parking lot, the soda I could not finish next to it.
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